The Kumano Faith and Legend of Hangan Oguri

Text: Norio Yasui, Owner, Oguriya Guesthouse; Hongu Storytellers Circle
Photos: Hongu Tourism Association

Kumano Faith / Kumano Kodo / Hangan Oguri / Yunomine Hot Spring, Hangan Oguri Healed by the Waters / High Priest Ippen


Kumano Faith



Ohyunohara
?Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine stood on
this site until being destroyed by floods in 1889.

Kumano is a holy land that has long supported the fervent faith of many. It has figured so importantly over the centuries that people coined the phrase "Seven times to Ise, three times to Kumano", meaning those who made their pilgrimage to Ise would continue on to Kumano. Locals began worshipping deities in the area some 2,000 years ago during the reign of the Emperor Sujin X. It is said that the Kumano pilgrimage was an integral part of society between the middle Heian Period and the Kamakura Period. From the visit of the Emperor Uda in 907 until the final visit was made in 1281 by the Emperor Kameyama, a long line of emperors has made it to Kumano including 12 visits by the Emperor Shirakawa, 33 visits by the Emperor Toba, 29 times by the Emperor Gotoba.
In 1619, Yorinobu Tokugawa, Lord of Kishu, put his efforts into restoring the Kumano Sanzan, which once again ignited the pilgrimage to Kumano. Regardless of social status and class, many people headed into the dense forests and steep mountains of Kumano in search of salvation and resurrection.


What drew people long ago to make the perilous journey in pilgrimage to Kumano? The route was a continuous encounter with trials and hardships, but they say it was a worthwhile experience that enlightened travelers and gave them incredible strength. Moreover, the natural environment of Kumano is beautiful and rich in seasonal changes. The mountains are high and the waters crystal clear, and hot springs can be found everywhere. The early travelers to this area may have seen it as a paradise on earth.
One of the reasons why the Kumano Sanzan instilled a fervent faith in people is that the Kumano Avatar embodies both Shinto and Buddhist spirits. It is said that the Avatar accepts all persons whether rich or poor, man or woman, pure or sinned.
People long ago may have set out for Kumano with the wish to resurrect themselves from the abyss of desperation. Kumano is truly an unusual place that stirred hearts in the Middle Ages. Over its long history, many stories of resurrection have unfolded here and even today people continue to come in search of spiritual help through prayer.



This is the largest Shinto arch in Japan. It was built by Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine in June 1999. On the other side of the arch is Ohyunohara where the former grand shrine stood until destroyed by floods in 1889.


A Road of Faith and History , Kumano Kodo

The Kumano Kodo is one of three ancient thoroughfares named Cultural Properties of Japan, the other two being the Okunohoso-michi and Nakasen-do. It consists of the Ise-ji of Mie Prefecture, the Nakahe-ji that extends from Nakahechi of Wakayama Prefecture to Hongu, the Ohe-ji that follows the coast around the Kii Peninsula, and the Kohe-ji that runs from Mt. Koya in Nara Prefecture to Hongu via Totsukawa. The roundtrip from Kyoto to Kumano took about one month (approx. 600 km) back in the days of the pilgrimages.
A typical pilgrimage began by descending the Yodo River from Shimotoba in Kyoto and landing in Settsu (near Tenmabashi, Kita-ku, Osaka today) where praying at Kubotsu-Oji, the first of the ninety-nine satellite shrines of Kumano. After that, travelers headed south to Izumi and eventually Kii until catching the Nakahe-ji Way at Kiitanabe. At the end of the Nakahe-ji Way was Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine where prayers were said. From Hongu, they descended the Kumano River by boat to Kumano Hayatama Grand Shrine in Shingu, worshipped there and then continued on to Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine. The return trip climbed Mr. Myoho in Nachi, followed the steep Ohkumotori Trail (Nachikatsuura - Kumanogawa) and Kogumotori Trail (Kumanogawa - Ukegawa, Hongu) back to Hongu, then the original road they came on.




The Kumano-Kodo Way between Mizunomi-Oji and Fushiogami-Oji


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